Raleigh Malawi
Driving in Malawi is bad at the best of time but right bang smack in the middle of the rainy season is a total nightmare. I am taking from experience here and quite possibly spent one of my most frustrating days in Malawi yet the other day.
We have now expanded into two new district and have been given the ‘toy’ car to travel around these great distances. We had arranged to visit some schools and a Teacher Development Centre (TDC) with some of our colleagues in one of the new districts. We were given a hand drawn map that looked quite simple to follow. (That was our first mistake – being lulled into a false sense of security!) Schools start at quarter past 7 so we knew we wouldn’t make it for that time so told the others that we would catch them up. We set of at 6am sharp and I thought it would probably take us about 2 hours as I knew where one of the places was on the map (Vwaza – a national park) and that takes about one hour to reach along some pretty bad roads. (That was mistake 2!)
The first part of the journey was ok, pretty bumpy and juddery but at least we knew where we were in Malawi. We then ran into our first spot of bother. The river had over flown and was streaming down over the road. Luckily there was a flood plain, hump thing over the road. We got out and took a look. Lucie threw a few stones into the water and to be honest we couldn’t really tell either way. Thankfully 2 Malawians on bicycles appeared at the other side of the bridge thing. They simply rolled up their trousers and off they went, bike in tow. Since they didn’t disappear into the depths of the water we felt it would be safe to cross – feeling slightly silly that they had managed with their bikes! Over we went and we were just glad that it hadn’t rained the day before!
We reached the end of the known territory roughly on time and were feeling in confident spirits. We then had to cross some pretty bad bridges. They are made from wood going horizontally with lots of planks going down them vertically, for where the tyres of vehicles would go, only these 2 bridges had several of the planks missing. We managed ok and just hoped there were no loose nails that may have gone into the tyres.
We came to a junction and instinct was telling up to go left. We got out our trusty map and spotted a junction. We were to turn right. (Mistake 3 – maps are never ever to scale!) As we had just passed a village which was drawn in the map before the junction we were sure that this was the way. Along we went on this road which actually resembled a country footpath and was really muddy. 4 wheel drive went on and eventually after the 8th patch of mud it stayed on! Next up was a big coca-cola truck stuck in the mud in front of us blocking the road. Usually this would be a pain as we would just have had to wait and sit it out but this was a blessing in disguise. We asked the men trying to dig it out if we were on the right road and they just laughed and told us that we should have not left the main road. Yeah right it looked like a main road in comparison with the one we were actually on! Off we set back along the way we had come and then turning left!
We kept going thinking that according to the map we couldn’t have been that far! (Mistake 4!) We miles later we actually arrived in the village we that thought was the one before the junction!
We spotted a TDC and popped in to just check our directions. The Assistant said it was about another 40kms (bloody miles on these roads) and that all we needed to do was to go straight! Literally 200 metres later we came to a junction – left or right! So much for just go straight. We took the left, but then thought that this was maybe the right turn on the map. We asked someone and we again needed to back track. We got excited as a TDC sign approached but no – it was for another TDC. We dropped in and seemed to be going in the right direction.
Another 20kms later we finally reached the TDC. We had been told that on this day they would stay and supervise the local schools. After a quick pit-stop in the local pit latrine (amongst about 20 half dead cockroaches) we were given another hand drawn map! We were to go to another zone to catch up with the advisors there. In between times we were to stop at the local secondary school to drop of an envelope for one of the students. This was actually the only successful part of the day!
So back to the adventure! Off we went again in search of this other school. Over the bridge, down a hill, up a hill, over a broken bit of road etc. We passed another TDC on the way and then the car started to give up. Everytime we braked or went over a bump (roughly every second) it made this awful sound. We reckoned that by the time we actually made it to the school the kids would have all gone home for the day so we gave up!
The only thing to do was to head back. We knew that there was another way to get back to Rumphi, and this way was via Mzuzu. We thought that the road might be better than the one we had come on. (Mistake 5 thousand – especially as we had absolutely no idea of where the hell in Malawi we were especially in relation to Mzuzu!)
We followed this road for a while and no it was no better than the one we had been on, perhaps even worse as it was used by more vehicles! After a while we came across a signpost and got very excited! (its not often you actually see signposts in Malawi, let alone on a back and beyond road) The sign pointed to Rumphi one way and Mzuzu the other. We obviously opted for Rumphi. (Yep you guessed it – next mistake!) By this time we had been driving non-stop for about 6 hours!
This bloody short cut lead us up and over hills, along isolated paths, over battered roads and eventually to another TDC. By this time we just wanted to find the tarmac road as at least by then we could work out where the hell we were! Another junction. We asked a local man which way was Rumphi and the tarmac. He pointed straight but wanted to be our penpals so we had to give excuses and eventually he left us his number so we could call him if we were in the area again! A group of young men had also congregated about the car wanting lifts to the road – not a good sign as they looked dodgey so we quickly made our excuses and bolted for the tarmac! Again over a few strips of muddy parts, sliding all over the place, we turned the corner expecting to see the tarmac. But no, all that greeted us was a load of young lads and 2 vehicles totally stuck in the mud. One had potential of getting out but the other, a huge articulated lorry (what it was doing on a back road in this weather is beyond me) looked stuck for a while – even the tractor that was pulling it out looked like it could struggle!
Man desperation set in but suddenly the first truck got free and started coming towards us (did I mention that this was a very narrow path and we were facing the stuck traffic?) Lucie quickly did a 50 point turn and the truck was not impressed at having to stop and wait for us! We went back to the TDC to ask for advice. The advisor told us that Mzuzu wasn’t actually that far and we would probably be quicker going that way. She said it would be about 21 kms before we take the fork in the road that leads to the tarmac.
Off we went again and only 12kms later we came to the fork in the road. I decided that we should try it for a few kms and see where it ended up as we know that Malawi distances can vary a lot! We asked a few people who couldn’t speak English but I was still hoping that this road was the one. Thankfully 100 metres after asking the last man was reached the tarmac! Horray!
From there is took about another 30 mins to get back to Rumphi. It was 3.00 by the time we got back – driving 9 hours anywhere is a treck but on the roads we were on and the car that we were in, it really was no laughing matter. The colour of the vehicle said it all – it is supposed to be white but was orange!
We were both knackered and unable to move properly the next day. At least we know have a rough idea of the parts of the area we are to be working in but I tell you it will be as minimum as possible!
The most depressing thing about it all is that we are giving a workshop at the same TDC in 2 weeks time. We have to go through it all again but next time, no short cuts………..
We have now expanded into two new district and have been given the ‘toy’ car to travel around these great distances. We had arranged to visit some schools and a Teacher Development Centre (TDC) with some of our colleagues in one of the new districts. We were given a hand drawn map that looked quite simple to follow. (That was our first mistake – being lulled into a false sense of security!) Schools start at quarter past 7 so we knew we wouldn’t make it for that time so told the others that we would catch them up. We set of at 6am sharp and I thought it would probably take us about 2 hours as I knew where one of the places was on the map (Vwaza – a national park) and that takes about one hour to reach along some pretty bad roads. (That was mistake 2!)
The first part of the journey was ok, pretty bumpy and juddery but at least we knew where we were in Malawi. We then ran into our first spot of bother. The river had over flown and was streaming down over the road. Luckily there was a flood plain, hump thing over the road. We got out and took a look. Lucie threw a few stones into the water and to be honest we couldn’t really tell either way. Thankfully 2 Malawians on bicycles appeared at the other side of the bridge thing. They simply rolled up their trousers and off they went, bike in tow. Since they didn’t disappear into the depths of the water we felt it would be safe to cross – feeling slightly silly that they had managed with their bikes! Over we went and we were just glad that it hadn’t rained the day before!
We reached the end of the known territory roughly on time and were feeling in confident spirits. We then had to cross some pretty bad bridges. They are made from wood going horizontally with lots of planks going down them vertically, for where the tyres of vehicles would go, only these 2 bridges had several of the planks missing. We managed ok and just hoped there were no loose nails that may have gone into the tyres.
We came to a junction and instinct was telling up to go left. We got out our trusty map and spotted a junction. We were to turn right. (Mistake 3 – maps are never ever to scale!) As we had just passed a village which was drawn in the map before the junction we were sure that this was the way. Along we went on this road which actually resembled a country footpath and was really muddy. 4 wheel drive went on and eventually after the 8th patch of mud it stayed on! Next up was a big coca-cola truck stuck in the mud in front of us blocking the road. Usually this would be a pain as we would just have had to wait and sit it out but this was a blessing in disguise. We asked the men trying to dig it out if we were on the right road and they just laughed and told us that we should have not left the main road. Yeah right it looked like a main road in comparison with the one we were actually on! Off we set back along the way we had come and then turning left!
We kept going thinking that according to the map we couldn’t have been that far! (Mistake 4!) We miles later we actually arrived in the village we that thought was the one before the junction!
We spotted a TDC and popped in to just check our directions. The Assistant said it was about another 40kms (bloody miles on these roads) and that all we needed to do was to go straight! Literally 200 metres later we came to a junction – left or right! So much for just go straight. We took the left, but then thought that this was maybe the right turn on the map. We asked someone and we again needed to back track. We got excited as a TDC sign approached but no – it was for another TDC. We dropped in and seemed to be going in the right direction.
Another 20kms later we finally reached the TDC. We had been told that on this day they would stay and supervise the local schools. After a quick pit-stop in the local pit latrine (amongst about 20 half dead cockroaches) we were given another hand drawn map! We were to go to another zone to catch up with the advisors there. In between times we were to stop at the local secondary school to drop of an envelope for one of the students. This was actually the only successful part of the day!
So back to the adventure! Off we went again in search of this other school. Over the bridge, down a hill, up a hill, over a broken bit of road etc. We passed another TDC on the way and then the car started to give up. Everytime we braked or went over a bump (roughly every second) it made this awful sound. We reckoned that by the time we actually made it to the school the kids would have all gone home for the day so we gave up!
The only thing to do was to head back. We knew that there was another way to get back to Rumphi, and this way was via Mzuzu. We thought that the road might be better than the one we had come on. (Mistake 5 thousand – especially as we had absolutely no idea of where the hell in Malawi we were especially in relation to Mzuzu!)
We followed this road for a while and no it was no better than the one we had been on, perhaps even worse as it was used by more vehicles! After a while we came across a signpost and got very excited! (its not often you actually see signposts in Malawi, let alone on a back and beyond road) The sign pointed to Rumphi one way and Mzuzu the other. We obviously opted for Rumphi. (Yep you guessed it – next mistake!) By this time we had been driving non-stop for about 6 hours!
This bloody short cut lead us up and over hills, along isolated paths, over battered roads and eventually to another TDC. By this time we just wanted to find the tarmac road as at least by then we could work out where the hell we were! Another junction. We asked a local man which way was Rumphi and the tarmac. He pointed straight but wanted to be our penpals so we had to give excuses and eventually he left us his number so we could call him if we were in the area again! A group of young men had also congregated about the car wanting lifts to the road – not a good sign as they looked dodgey so we quickly made our excuses and bolted for the tarmac! Again over a few strips of muddy parts, sliding all over the place, we turned the corner expecting to see the tarmac. But no, all that greeted us was a load of young lads and 2 vehicles totally stuck in the mud. One had potential of getting out but the other, a huge articulated lorry (what it was doing on a back road in this weather is beyond me) looked stuck for a while – even the tractor that was pulling it out looked like it could struggle!
Man desperation set in but suddenly the first truck got free and started coming towards us (did I mention that this was a very narrow path and we were facing the stuck traffic?) Lucie quickly did a 50 point turn and the truck was not impressed at having to stop and wait for us! We went back to the TDC to ask for advice. The advisor told us that Mzuzu wasn’t actually that far and we would probably be quicker going that way. She said it would be about 21 kms before we take the fork in the road that leads to the tarmac.
Off we went again and only 12kms later we came to the fork in the road. I decided that we should try it for a few kms and see where it ended up as we know that Malawi distances can vary a lot! We asked a few people who couldn’t speak English but I was still hoping that this road was the one. Thankfully 100 metres after asking the last man was reached the tarmac! Horray!
From there is took about another 30 mins to get back to Rumphi. It was 3.00 by the time we got back – driving 9 hours anywhere is a treck but on the roads we were on and the car that we were in, it really was no laughing matter. The colour of the vehicle said it all – it is supposed to be white but was orange!
We were both knackered and unable to move properly the next day. At least we know have a rough idea of the parts of the area we are to be working in but I tell you it will be as minimum as possible!
The most depressing thing about it all is that we are giving a workshop at the same TDC in 2 weeks time. We have to go through it all again but next time, no short cuts………..
posted by Caroline Pitcairn at
5:29 pm
2 Comments:
pitcairn I am exhausted just reading that! What a nightmare, hope next time you recognise some of the roads lol
away to check your pics now
suze xxx
By
Anonymous, at 10:06 pm
I really enjoyed your description of your Zambian trip . Was sooo jealous. Judy
By
Anonymous, at 9:00 pm
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